IOT Push Button (Like Amazon Dash)

Amazon Dash button is an incredible piece of hardware and another example of “applied engineering” in Amazon, just like Kindle.

The inspiration for this project isn’t directly derived from amazon dash, I wasn’t aware of it until I started digging the internet but at end, I had to set the performance goal to Amazon dash, because no other piece of hardware was up to mark. A detailed teardown of dash button can be found here.

So, Since “decades” I wanted to build some piece of hardware which I could dynamically program for any functionality like playing next youtube video, unlocking door, rebooting a machine, minimizing all open tabs or whatever with a push of a button. The button should be portable and independent of device for operation.

To meet my requirements I had to remove BLE or any other radio-based technology which needed a receiver or additional unit to operate. ESP-12F is power intensive and somewhat large if compared to esp-01.  The end prototype looked like this and worked as expected.

Below is list of components I used.

  • 1x LiPo Battery – 150mAh
  • 1x ESP8266-01
  • 1x 1k Register
  • 1x Tactile Switch Button

You might require a soldering iron with fine tip, basic desoldering skills, access to 3d printer, FTDI board or similar setup.

The schematics of setup would look like below:

The functioning would be like – We turn on ESP using push button, but it would take time to log in to wifi, authenticate – so we need to keep it on for pretty long time – which could be done by using programming output pins, As soon as ESP turn on GPIO2 can be set to HIGH, Once operation is finished it can be set to low. Few challenges which I found on way (with fixes):

  • Power is very limited – So we need to remove LED’s from the esp, this would save a lot of power and would increase battery life by almost a fold!
  • You should use diode and transistor to limit current, since I am not an electronic nerd I would not comment on it.
  • You should set a timeout period, in case you are writing custom logic else battery will drain and you will never come to know why!

After soldering – You have to upload following code which need to be tweaked according to need, but it has basic logic code –

The code can set in hotspot mode if couldn’t connect to wifi and if could connect it would make a connection to mqtt server and make an announcement then shutdown.

I hope you enjoyed the article, it wasn’t a detailed writeup and I dropped many details – but if you have any questions you can comment or drop mail – I will surely help.

Cheap BLE : JDY-08

Disclaimer : This post is based on my experience which is completely subjective, in no way I am promoting any application or product ūüėČ


I have been trying to get my hands into BLE4.0 modules since long. As always I was looking for small, cheap solution, JDY-08 was one of solution I came across – it seemed just Perfect !

JDY-08 Module

It is based on TI-CC2541 SOC, Low power consumption – long range Voila!

Below is what is being advertised by most vendors:

  1. maximum transmit power of 0db, the maximum transmission distance of 80 meters.
  2.  support serial allowing users to modify the device name through AT commands service UUID, transmit power, pairing password instructions, convenient to use and flexible.
  3. Ultra-low standby power consumption 400uA ~ 800uA
  4. Ultra-long connection distance 100 ft / 60 m
  5. Fast reaction speed 0.4 secondsFor Apple, AndroidReceive no byte limit, up to 6K Bytes/sec.

I quickly ordered 10pcs without a second thought.

Below is what you should keep in mind:

  1. Datasheet, documentation – everything is in Chinese! Cool !
    Luckily, Few folks did translation –¬†
    Also, you can check because this is the only helpful resource in the web.
  2. Firmware is broken – at least for me, some other user confirmed same in above Arduino thread.
  3. No other support.
  4. Non-standard board pitch, you cannot use header pins

But it is good in many ways:

  1. Small size, thin, light, small – cool!
  2. If you use HC-05 or HC-06 for transparent communication, you can use GATT terminal for transparent communication.
  3. Very low power consumption – from my tests, I found 0.5ma consumption.
  4. Long range Рupto 30meters without optimization.
  5. iBeacon mode – works fine – but power consumption was 0.5ma

I was unable to test as I could only use GATT write & notify methods, AT commands to change mode & device name, even AT+RST returned ERR.

You can use following tools to test :

Below is schematic I followed:




Just Another DIY “Smart” Watch

Note : This article was written after project was partially completed, so i don’t have better images.

There are hundred’s of projects for building “Smart watch using arduino”, I have curated a list of better projects at end of this article. I didn’t plan to copy any of given projects but at end it turned out that world is a big place. So this blog post is my effort in developing “My smartwatch”.

Hardware :

  1. Arduino Pro mini
  2. Bluetooth module (HC-05)
  3. OLED Module (SSD1306)
  4. LiPo Battery (110 mAh)
  5. Thin copper wire, single strand if possible.
  6. FTDI Breakout board or any way to program Arduino pro mini.
  7. Micro USB female pins
  8. Membrane Tape

Tools :

  • Soldering iron – along with soldering wire, flux, etc.
  • 3d Printer/Good Crafting Skills to make a case
  • Working brain ! (Recommended)

Software :

  • Android Phone (BTTerm) /Linux System(minicom, rfcomm), Windows Phone, Windows *, Mac OS Users are on their own but you can search for “Bluetooth serial terminal”
  • Arduino IDE
  • Common Sense ! (Recommended)

The guide here is definitely not a step by step guide, it just tells the flow (an algorithm not code).

  1. Desolder pins in your OLED display. Yea, all header pins.. for noobs like me it’s a tough task.
  2. Desolder pins of HC-05/HC06 if it has, if you got module without header, skip
  3. Connect all GND, VCC pins of arduino, hc-05, oled Easy ?
  4. Solder oled pins SCL -> A5, SDA -> A4  to arduino.
  5. Solder hc-05 pins  TX -> 10, RX -> 11  to pro mini.
  6. Then Solder VCC with a switch (Any you prefer) & to battery.
  7. Upload the code
  8. Connect to HC-05 using phone & send any data.

    HC-05 Soldered

Oled, HC-05, ProMini Stacked.







Everything stacked Packed

Back View

Front View










Click here to watch working video.

Below is arduino code :


As told initially my build is not the best one, there are people with better electronics & better output check these :